This site is meant to gather helpful information about the TT ST-1 RC Truggy. Most of this information has been extracted from the 200+ page ST-1 owner's thread found on the RCUniverse.com forums.
- Receiver Battery Pack (6 volt flat pack recommended)
- Glow Plug Ignitor
- Nitro Fuel (20% Nitro, 10-15% Oil)
- Fuel Bottle
- Air Filter Oil (get this at your local motorcycle store, much cheaper)
- Spare Glow Plug (McCoy #59)
- Starter Box or Roto Start (keep in mind that the roto start should NOT be used until after break-in)
- See following video for an example of a properly aligned starter box.
- After Run Oil (ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, or WD40 can also be used)
- Temperature Gun
- Differential Fluid of Various Types (1k, 3k, 5k, 7k, 10k)
- Quality Set of Hex Wrenches
There are lots of good tutorials and videos around. I'll post my favorite(s) after I build up some experience and see which work best for my ST-1.
This is one of the most popular mods for getting the ST-1 ready to race. Start with the following instructions and I will post my personal before and after photos when I complete this mod on my car.
- http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17753 (you will need to register to see the forum post)
Here are the parts required from A Main Hobbies (you can probably find these at you LHS as well):
The ST-1 has three differentials; front, middle, and rear. From the factory the differentials are lubricated with a bit of grease. While this is okay for playing and bashing, it is a good idea to fill them with differential fluid. There has also been reports of ST-1 RTR's missing grease in one or more of the differentials. This causes extra strain and wear of the differentials.
There are various viscosities of differential fluid available. The higher the number, the thicker the fluid. Thicker fluid causes more power to be transfered equally between booth wheels. Completely locking a differential is possible using a differential putty.
A good starting point for differential fluids seems to be 5k front, 10k middle, and 1k rear (as recommended by the ST-1 Pro instructions). However, there is no right or wrong answer. An in depth guide to differential setup can be found here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7220011
You may also find http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwizards/blending/fluid2.html?SMSESSION=NO useful to mix diff fluids (same brand recommended) to get the perfect weight.
Sealing your engine can eliminate a lot of tuning problems. Often engines are difficult to tune because of small air leaks. I had noticeable leaks around my carborator in my engine. A very straight forward guide (with lots of pictures) to sealing a nitro engine can be found here:
The heat-sink on your engine should have notches in it to help cooling (like the following picture). If they don't exist you can add your own with a dremmel...
- Wing and Extension - (extension is almost always back ordered)
- Pipe Upgrade - 2035 Tuned Pipe
- Engine Upgrade - TBD
- Servo Upgrades - ACE DS1015
- Glow Plugs: McCoy 59,
- Bodies that Fit "Easily": JConcepts MGT Body, MBX5T Crowd Pleazer Body
- RCUniverse.com ST-1 Owner's Thread
- Thunder Tiger USA Phone Number: 949-900-3300
- Thunder Tiger Home Page